Wood Butter – A Recipe for Your Utensils!

Wood Butter is not a food post but one sharing how to care for and condition the wood utensils you use. 

Wood Butter - A Beeswax Product for your Wooden UtensilsOften called Spoon Oil, this magical elixir has become know as Wood Butter in my home and I think that’s a much better fit. It’s perfect for the care of the wood items we use in the kitchen and does a great job of renewing wood utensils and bowls. A necessity but also a bit indulgent…yes, ‘butter’ is perfect!

We need to take special care of our wood kitchen items in Denver due to the low humidity in our environment and I can be as lax as the next person.

Making your own ‘wood butter’ makes it simple and inexpensive too. I was reminded by a friend that she ‘hoped’ I would have some made in time for Christmas and decided that this very old post (first published in 2009) might be beneficial to some who have never seen it before so I resized the photos (I used to include much smaller photos in posts) and am publishing this again.

It’s not just perfect for your kitchen but every friend I have is like the one mentioned…they look forward to their annual supply that I include in holiday gifts baskets for friends.

I was lucky to find a local resource for the beeswax but Amazon sells Beeswax Pellets online. The small pellets make for easier melting; I bought two pounds which is enough for (48) 4 oz containers…um, that should be enough for awhile don’t you think? Finding the food grade mineral oil was easy once I finally remembered to put it on my grocery list; it’s typically available in the pharmacy. I now know why that poor guy gave me such a funny look when I lamented that I wish they had more than four bottles. I’ve always used it for wood conditioning; I’m thinking he was wondering why I needed more than four bottles of a laxative. Who knew?

Wood Butter - Melting and Pouring the Wax Into JarsThe process is easy but can be messy. Most ‘recipes’ include heating the wax in a mid size Ball jar in hot water and adding warmed mineral oil to the wax once it is melted. I preferred using a large glass measuring cup with a pour spout as I was going to be pouring the combined liquid into a whole bunch of small jars. I also used a funnel just for canning and it worked perfectly.

The only negative to this method is the removal of the wax from the measuring cup and funnel. I decided since I’ll be doing this again, I’ll just save those two utensils just for this process and candle making and not worry about the residue layer that remained inside each.

A reader has mentioned that freezing the utensils used would make the was come off easily; I haven’t tried that yet but plan to.

Wood Butter - Before and AfterWhat better way to show you the magic of Wood Butter than a Before and After photo. Totally untouched, promise. Everything in this photo has been treated with an application of wood butter including the bottom board. Simply apply a bit to a paper towel or a piece of cheesecloth and rub a dollop onto the surface until it’s rubbed in.

The bowl in front was an inexpensive one I purchased from World Market and it was apparently never supposed to touch water. It did, I thought it ruined but ‘the butter’ did the trick. I found the wooden rolling pin at a yard sale and can’t believe the difference myself. All of my cutting boards have a renewed luster; in fact they seem new again. It is not tasty like a sage compound butter but it is a miracle butter!

PIN ‘Wood Butter A Recipe for Your Utensils’

Wood Butter is stored in glass jars and pictured with wood items it has restored to original luster.

Jars of Wood Butter and Wooden Kitchen Utensils Before and After Use

Wood Butter - A Recipe for Your Utensils
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4.86 from 195 votes

Wood Butter – A Recipe for Your Utensils!

A terrific homemade product to use for all of your wood kitchen products from wooden spoons to cutting boards.
Prep Time10 mins
Cook Time35 mins
Total Time45 mins
Course: All Recipes
Servings: 20 ounces
Author: Creative Culinary

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces pure beeswax - measured dry; I bought pellets
  • 16 ounces of mineral oil - typically packaged with 16 liquid ounces per container.

Instructions

  • Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a gentle boil.
  • Place your beeswax inside a 2 quart glass measuring cup or a 1 quart glass jar; set the glass into the gently boiling water.
  • Place the container of mineral oil inside another medium saucepan filled with water and heat to low.The mineral oil just needs to be warmed to mix with the beeswax; no need for a rolling boil.
  • Once all the wax has melted, turn off the stove and carefully add the warmed mineral oil to the beeswax;stirring with a spoon to combine.
  • Using a towel around the handle of the measuring cup, carefully pour the liquid into each jar fit with the canning funnel; filling them almost to the top.
  • Finish filling all jars and wait for the was to cool and firm up before using.

Nutrition

Serving: 18

Note: This post has had several people feel compelled to advise against the use of mineral oil as an ingredient as it is a by product of petroleum, however, it has been deemed safe by the FDA for use as a laxative so I see no need for the scare tactics. See the comments from a reader named Bob…he speaks the truth!

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500 Comments

  1. I read a lot of the comments, but not all of them. Apologies if this has already been addressed.
    I was making a recipe very similar to this one from another site. The first one I saw had a 4:1 ratio of oil:beeswax. (I think this is the same as yours.)
    I measure it by weight and put in 8 oz. of oil and added 2 oz. of beeswax. I put all of that into a double boiler and slowly got the wax up to 150ºF (the beeswax apparently melts around 144-147ºF). After it all melted and was mixed together thoroughly, I set the container aside to let it cool. It got thicker than I anticipated (I was trying to mimic Howard’s Butcher Block conditioner), so I added more oil and finally got it to a consistency closer to what I was expecting (more of a thick liquid). I estimate my final ratio was more like 8:1.
    Anyway, I’m using this to condition cutting boards, mostly fresh ones that I’ve made myself (so no prior conditioning of the wood).
    It seems like both the “thick liquid” and the “paste” versions of this recipe would have their benefits. I kinda suspect the liquid is better for initial conditioning of cutting boards, since the more liquid-y it is, the better the oil will soak in to the wood, followed by subsequent treatments with the thicker/paste version.
    But I’m not necessarily convinced of that and would be curious to see what you think.
    Thanks for this post!

    1. I’ve only ever made it like the recipe here Mike but my thoughts are that you don’t need to make it more liquidy. It’s only going to absorb so far into the wood and when I’ve used the paste that results from this recipe, it does take a good amount the first time around but I’m sure it’s absorbing plenty. Maybe to get the best of both worlds for you, which is your more liquid version but still have the same properties with more a higher ratio of beeswax, you could simply soften some of this before you applied it?

    2. Hi Mike…we also make cutting boards..we give them a good coating of plain mineral oil, dry overnight, sand with a 600 grit than apply the wood butter from the recipe above, boards are very smooth

  2. Just adding my bit to the comments. I have been on a homemade balm kick lately. Started years ago when I made my own deodorant, then hand salve, then leather conditioner (I do leather work), and now wood butter (next is waterproofing cream for canvas). They all are basically wax and oil(s). When I do the balms, I go with the large mason jar in a pot of water on the stove. First I melt the wax, then I add any solids (the deodorant has baking soda and corn starch), stir to goopy, then add any oils and continue stirring – I want to be sure everything mixes together well. If I’m adding essential oils, they go as it cools because they’ll evaporate quickly.

    I have a chuckle when I read people going all “chicken little” about things. I, for one, was trying to find the recipe I’d found before that USED mineral oil. Get real! I wonder sometimes if the people who post recipes, “only use the first pressing of the oils that come when the moon is full and the last breath of spring passes over the moor” actually use those ingredients or just say that to sound special. LOL

    Thank you. Stay safe!

  3. I don’t see the issues with mineral oil with some people. Look at the fruit and vegetables people eat. It’s all coated with waxes and oils before hitting the supermarket produce section. I worked in a Frozen Ravioli-Tortellini Pasta plant. Every machine is sprayed with mineral oil to lubricate the machine parts and to reduce friction during production. People who buy these products don’t know that after the products are made and go through a Hypochlorite Bath before being frozen to kill off bacteria. The same solution is called Bleach. So what is a little Mineral Oil going to hurt, if you buy boxed pasta, the chance is this pasta was made on a machine coated with mineral oil also. Creative Culinary is right, this is a great recipe that has been used by many people for a long time. Any woman that wears make-up and other cosmetics who has concerns about mineral oil as Bob stated should not wear cosmetics. People should wonder where all the fish scales go from fish plants, well if you are wondering it’s all right here, https://www.livethatglow.com/fish-scales-in-cosmetics/. So go on and make up some of this Woodbutter, it’s not going to hurt you.

    1. I wanted to add this website to the fear-factor theory that mineral oil is bad for you. It’s about the wax made with Kerosene that gets sprayed on fruits and vegetables before leaving the Orchards and Farms. Yes, Kerosene is highly combustible but you’re worried about a little Minera Oil that has been used as early as the mid-1800s. Just remember the next time you pick a Grape off the Vine at the supermarket to sample the freshness of the Grape before purchase. It’s sprayed with wax made of Kerosene.

      https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2017/04/why-fruit-has-a-fake-wax-coating/524619/

    2. For anyone dubious about using mineral oil ( which I am not ). I live in Ireland and have been using a similar recipe for years. I am lucky enough to have my own beeswax that I mix with organic rape seed oil without any problems of the wax going rancid.

  4. Hi, just wondering how often this would need to be applied? Thinking of using this on my handmade wooden coasters as I have a little one running around that shoves anything in her mouth and would prefer a food safe finish like this.

    1. I only do most of my things once a year, however I do not have a toddler sucking on them. 🙂 I think it will last awhile, I can always tell when my boards are ready, they start to look a bit dry again. Good luck!

  5. I forgot to ask, after using the proper oil of choice for seasoning cast iron skillets, can this spoon butter recipe be used for maintaining cast iron skillets? Thank you in advance!

    1. No you don’t want to use this for cast iron. All you need for that is a vegetable oil. Pour a couple of spoonfuls into your skillet, heat it until the oil starts to shimmer, them rub the oil all over the inside of the skillet, heat for another minute, turn off heat, let cool and then wipe clean with more paper toweling. That should do it, repeat as necessary…and with this I do it about once a month but I use my cast iron skillet all the time!

      1. A note about the cast iron. Use vegetable oil for seasoning, but if you are storing for long term in humid climates a coating of food grade mineral oil will not go rancid and will protect the seasoning and cast iron very well. I just do a quick wash whenever I pull it out to use to reduce the amount of laxative in the food.

        1. Thanks Toby…sounds like a good idea. I’ll never have to worry much myself, I’m in Denver, humidity is foreign here! 🙂

  6. I was looking for a spoon butter recipe for my wooden kitchen utensils and my wooden cutting board. I found this one, made it, then last night rubbed the wooden utensils in the butter and left them overnight. I just now wiped the excess oil off, and I can’t describe how much like new they look. I want to thank you so very much for this recipe. The spoon butter turned out beautifully. I’ll be using it from now on for all my wooden items in the kitchen. Thank you so much!

    1. Thanks so much for letting me know! I have a photo in the post of before and after; the difference really can be quite dramatic!

    1. Yes, I do all the time. It will actually soak into the wood and protect it but it really won’t impact the food that’s cut on it.

    1. I’ve not used it like that Norma but I see no reason why it couldn’t unless you’ve got cabinets that have any kind of a varnish coating on them, it really won’t do them any good. It would have to be cabinets where you actually would be applying this to bare wood.

  7. Hi! Wanting to make this and gift folks with some…what is the yield once the beeswax and mineral oil are melted together? 24oz? 20oz?

    I just need to know how many containers a single batch will fill if I am using a 4oz container…

    1. I just made my very first batch this morning. I got three 8-ounce jars. I can’t wait for it to set up so I can use it!

  8. I’m just now seeing this and I can’t wait to make a batch or several batches!. I work in the oil industry so I have no problem with the use of mineral oil. My only question is that I live in Louisiana (high humidity), would that effect this recipe in any way once made? I plan on making it as gifts and to sell in my booth. Would the high humidity effect the shelf life?

    1. Since I live in Denver where it is dry I can’t say I have any experience with making it in a humid environment but honestly…neither of the two ingredients are ones that would be impacted so I’m going with that it should be fine! 🙂

  9. Any thoughts on hemp seed oil??? Seems like a possible alternative? Does it go rancid? Looking to use this solely for furniture.

    1. I don’t have any experience with hemp seed oil Denise but since you are looking solely for furniture, why not use the mineral oil as I’ve indicated?

      1. Many of us prefer to avoid petroleum byproducts overall not just in our food and not just due to health concerns. I’m surprised you are so defensive about this. Have you ever tried a different oil than mineral oil?

        1. Defensive about it? It’s people like you who come to my website to an article that I’ve written about a product that I made and want to know if I’ve tried something other than what I’ve done when I’m fine with the products that I use. If you want to try something else, go for it.

          I don’t know if defensive is the word so much as simply weary of it. Try whatever you want to, this is what I suggest and I have absolutely zero desire to try something else. Period.

  10. Thank you for this recipe! I’m excited to make it. I bought Kondremul Lurbricant Laxative Mineral Oil (mircroemulsion) and its milky white. Iv’e used mineral oil on my spoons before and it’s been clear. Can I use this type on my wooden utensils? I wanted to ask before I made a batch. Thank you for your time.

    1. I’m not familiar with the product that you mention so what I would suggest is you find a small inconspicuous place and try rubbing some of your product on it. If you can see through it then there’s no reason it wouldn’t work when combined with the beeswax.

  11. We tried this recipe and it seperated. Did we do something wrong? We doubled the recipe because we wanted to give little samples away with the cutting boards we were makinggand selling but we couldn’t. We will definitely try this again, but if you have a few tips that would help.

    1. Could also be:
      – too much wax/too little oil
      – or most likely that the mineral oil was too cold. If it separates when you add the oil just place it back on the heat u til it all melts together- then store/cool it.

      I actually don’t warm my mineral oil first (though it prolly would be more efficient) cause I don’t want the extra pot to clean lol. So I just add it to the wax after it melts while it is still on the heat, let it separate, once it melts I remove it and stir it every half our or so until it’s completely cool.

      The nice thing about this recipe is you can make mistakes- just remelt it all together and add more wax/oil if you miscalculated

  12. Just wondering a couple things,
    1) Do you think this would be good to use as a wood conditioner for a spinning wheel?
    2) If using it on a spinning wheel, could I add in some citrus essential oils to make it smell “Pledge-y”?

    1. I see no reason why not on either count although to be fair I have NEVER added anything. Once it’s rubbed on and your wheel is rubbed well, there really shouldn’t be anything left on the surface; it absorbs. I’ve not used essential oils; this does have a nice, natural beeswax scent if that matters. Good luck!

  13. I love this stuff!! It leaves the wood in great shape with a marvelous feel.
    Question — I am applying this to all of the pieces for a hardwood kitchen island prior to assembling. Any good suggestions for doing grooves or tight spaces? I considered melting some with a cup warmer and applying it very thinly with a brush. I won’t be able to ‘wipe’ or “buff” those areas. Thoughts?

  14. Hi! I came across your post and I was wondering, does the wood butter have to cool with the lids off? Or could you theoretically put the lids on while it is still hot and make a sort of “canning” situation to get the lid to seal!? I’m thinking mainly for shipping purposes, I would hate for it to start to melt in a hot climate and leak out of a poorly sealed container!

    thanks for writing this post ?

    1. You can put a lid on while it’s warm; I can’t see a problem with that. I once shipped something to friends and was worried about the same thing…I simply wrapped some strapping tape around the lids to be sure they were secure…I was shipping cranberry liqueur! Good luck!

  15. Thanks so much for this post! My bamboo and wooden spoons are now soaking in a layer of this wonderful butter. I’ve had them for quite a while and had not always been too kind to them. But things are looking up (and my cuticles are pretty happy right now too – Bonus).
    Tomorrow the wooden cutting boards will get a going over.

      1. Hello Barb – Thanks for the recipe. For those people who have legitimate concerns about mineral oil, check out “fractionated” coconut oil (aka MCT oil), which consists of medium-chain triglycerides after the long-chain fatty acids (lauric acid) have been removed by hydrolysis and steam distillation. Unlike typical coconut oil, this product stays liquid at low temperatures and resists becoming rancid. It does not have the health benefits of regular coconut oil, however it is not a petroleum product. I don’t know how suitable a substitute it would be for mineral oil since its consistency is lighter. However, it might be a better choice than vegetable oils.

        1. Thanks for that suggestion Laurie. I don’t personally have concerns but those that do too often want to use a product I know will go rancid; I cannot in good conscience recommend that. Since regular use means occasionally redoing the ‘buttering’ something that is not inclined to go rancid is certainly a better alternative.

    1. You’re most welcome; it really is a nice product. You can cut those ingredients in half too if you want; I make a lot because I always hand them out to friends.

  16. Thank you for this recipe. I just wanted to add my experience. I’m almost afraid to tell you I do not like the idea of mineral oil. I’ve been using a similar recipe than yours, but with either olive oil or canola, depending on what I have on hand. I usually heat a small quantity of oil, maybe 1/2 cup, in a small jar and add 2 tablespoons of beeswax pellets, or grate some if I have a block instead. Then I do my spoons, boards and butcher block. They do not get rancid, ever. I noticed that if I make a bigger quantity of butter, it will get rancid after a year or so, that is why I started making it as I need it. S

    1. You don’t have to like it and you can use whatever you want but this is my experience on my blog and it’s what I suggest readers use. Food grade mineral oil is absolutely acceptable and the ONLY oil I would use if I didn’t want to worry about it going rancid which both olive oil and vegetable absolutely can do so I will not recommend them.

      1. Completely agree with you regarding the mineral oil. In your article you mentioned that you’re a candle maker as am I. I use an old 3 at fryer (solely used for test candles) but will use this to melt and blend your recipe. Thanks so much!

      2. Yes ( Mineral oil only) , all others will go Rancid. I even use it on my Owl house , Bat & all bird feeders & houses. Everything else but Mineral Oil will attract bugs , mold & a bad smell. All my Children Toys, I make also have to have Mineral Oil as it is Food & Child Safe. Thanks , Lorne Budgell.

        1. I try to tell them Lorne but you know some people just think they know everything. There is not another safe oil; I will never recommend one either. This one works so well; it’s my one and only. 🙂

      1. So good to hear Karen! I’ve used it on some very old furniture too; Colorado is so dry and hard on furniture and it really brought it back to life.

    2. Thanks for this alternative Cecile. Wondering in what quantities you use the olive oil to beeswax. I’m interested in an alternative to Mineral Oil 🙂 Thanks!

      1. 5 stars
        The ratio would be the same, 1:4. For every ounce of beeswax, use 4 oz of oil. I would strongly recommend against olive oil though because it goes rancid quickly. Fractionated coconut oil is a much better option.

  17. I know you posted this a looong time ago, but I just wanted to say *Thank You*! I appreciate that this recipe is still available. I made it and my poor abused cutting boards and wooden spoons got some much-needed TLC! Thanks so much for sharing!

    (I see some have asked about adding scent or essential oils to the recipe. For one, I wouldn’t want anything with a scent to possibly transfer to the food that would come into contact with it. For another, many essential oils are not safe for consumption and therefore I would urge caution. The beeswax gives it a nice light honey fragrance anyway, so any added scent would be superfluous, IMO)

    1. It’s one of my most popular posts so it’s not going anywhere…and so glad you enjoy it. It does make a LOT but then I have friends that are OK with that…they know where to come when they run out! 🙂

  18. I’ve just started woodturning and this receipe is fantastic for applying on my finished turnings and Im amazed at what it does for our older wood products.
    Thank you for sharing it works great!!
    Dave

    1. Good to hear David; I know I love it and in Denver where it’s so arid it’s been a real lifesaver.

  19. I ordered some beeswax from Amazon (they were out of stock from your source and I couldn’t find any locally) and they smell very strongly of what I’d describe as a stale cigarette smoke type smell. Not having any experience with this kind of thing before, I’m just wondering if it’s normal. Should they have an odor like that? I made the butter anyway and I’m going to test it out on some old wooden spoons tonight 🙂

    1. I wish I had some but I don’t right now. When I think of the scent I can’t say it’s offensive but it’s sure not sweet like honey either. Let me know how it works…that’s the real test!

    2. To me, beeswax (that hasn’t been refined) has a faint smell of honey, but is more resinous. Definitely not like cigarettes!

    3. Honey bees gather pollen from many sources, their honey and combs will taste like the highest percentage of available source. Bitter yarrow flavors often are deeply weedy, rose, fireweed, clover are sweet and mesquite has that deep oily wood resin. So see if you can find out what your wax was pollinated with as it’s highist source.

    4. Try looking for a local beekeeper in your area. Fresh beeswax will smell wonderfully like honey. You may not be able to get the particles from a local apiary, but they will sell it in bricks that you can then grate with a cheese grater (reserve a grater just for this purpose 😉 ). It isn’t as convenient as the pastilles but works just as well and supports local.

    5. I know this is an old post but I just read it so maybe others will as well.

      It’s much better to buy through a bee keeper or honey supplier. Much of what’s sold on Amazon as “pure” beeswax, and especially the pellets, is likely from China and is fake or cut with cheap ingredients like paraffin.

      The real beeswax should smell very pleasant and is more expensive than the fake stuff. I’ve only bought in blocks and then shave or cut with a sturdy chef knife and weighed on a kitchen scale.

      1. It is a good idea to vet your supplier certainly. I do provide a link in the post to a supplier in Chesterfield, MO but I’m going to contact them and find out more about their original source. Thanks for that push!

  20. Hi, I searched thru all of the comments but didn’t find this particular question…do you know how this would hold up if shipping somewhere? In other words, could it melt or does it keep solid? Thanks for this recipe! It looks amazing!

    1. It can certainly melt and soften since it was made from liquid but it shouldn’t cause it any harm; just wrap tightly to prevent leakage if you think it might melt. It would harden again once it was removed from excess heat. Truthfully I’m not sure it would melt so much as get soft. Hope that helps.

  21. Thank you very much for this . I have always purchased a highend beewax salad bowl finisher, @ $10.00 for 2oz . I will definitely be trying this.

    1. Most welcome Barb; before I made this I saw a bottle of pricey oil…that was simply high grade mineral oil; this is better and less expensive!

  22. I am so making some of this! I have a bunch of antique wooden spoons that would benefit from a good conditioning. I gave my wooden bread bowl to my daughter. A gift of this butter to care for it would go over very well!

  23. Just wanted to share a helpful hint with you about getting the wax out of your utensils. Simply put them in the freezer overnight. When the wax is frozen, it scrapes out pretty easy. To get rid of any residue, just put it in the dishwasher. This also works beautifully for those little votive candle holders. They come out like new.

    1. Why that is a great idea and now I’m irritated with myself that I didn’t think of it! Thanks Ilene…very much!

    2. I actually place the utensil in boiling water… wax melts and floats to the top. Let them cool and then run through the dishwasher. 😉

  24. I bought the Groland kitchen island from Ikea, which is made of unfinished birch. Not wanting to mess with polyurethane (been there, done that), I mixed up a batch of this stuff to rub all over the island. It looks beautiful! It really brought out the sheen and texture of the birch. The bamboo cutting boards (and every other wooden thing I’ve put it on) all are looking great!

    1. Good to hear Kim…it really is a great little product and probably my most requested to be ‘filled again’ for holiday gifts to friends!

    1. Absolutely; it’s just the two ingredients so as long as you mix the amounts in the same ratio with each other you’ll be fine.

  25. I cannot wait to try this! I still have some pricy butcher block stuff to use up first-which I love but I have to mail order it and it is pricy, so can’t wait to make this. It will also make unique Christmas gifts!

  26. OK, so I don’t really want to use this on anything due to the mineral oil, I do agree that most other oils that might be substituted would have the possibility of going rancid.
    The fact that the FDA approves mineral oil for human consumption does NOT assure me, however!
    At any rate, the EWG seems to think that is is not too bad, so for all of those out there wanting to know more about it since it is from crude oil….here it is.

    Again, thank you for the great idea and recipe.
    From Environmental Working Group

    http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/703977/MINERAL_OIL/
    Health Concerns of the Ingredient:

    Overall Hazard

    Low

    Cancer

    Low

    Developmental &
    reproductive toxicity

    Allergies & immunotoxicity

    Moderate

    Use restrictions

    Other MODERATE concerns: Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)
    About MINERAL OIL: Mineral Oil is a liquid mixture of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum.
    Function(s): Fragrance Ingredient; Hair Conditioning Agent; Skin-Conditioning Agent – Emollient;Skin-Conditioning Agent – Occlusive; Skin Protectant; Solvent; ANTISTATIC; PERFUMING; SKIN PROTECTING
    Synoym(s): DEOBASE; HEAVY MINERAL OIL; LIGHT MINERAL OIL; LIQUID PARAFFIN; LIQUID PETROLATUM; PARAFFIN OIL; PARAFFIN OILS; PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM; PETROLEUM WHITE MINERAL OIL; PROLATUM OIL; WHITE MINERAL OIL, PET

  27. What would you sub for the mineral oil? Although it might be “food grade”, mineral oil is sourced from crude oil, and NOT something that I want in contact with food items.
    Thank you!

    1. That sound interesting: so you do not use anything made of plastic for handling and storage of your food, I take it? That’s because plastic materials are mostly “sourced from crude oil”, and therefore are not something that you want in contact with food items?
      This “mineral oil” that you are so afraid of, is also known as “Liquid Paraffin”. Not only it is “food grade”, it is also a medication – indeed, safest way to buy it is from your local chemist. Adult dosage of 1-2 spoonfuls swallowed at bedtime helps to soften stool (prolonged use may lead to dependence).
      When applied to the wood, the oil&wax actually soaks inside, into the structure of the wood, and penetrates deeper and deeper with time. That’s why the treatment needs to be re-applied every now and then. Equivalent of one spoonful of this oil would be probably enough to treat half a dozen cutting boards. After 24 hours, the amount of the oil that remains on the surface (and can therefore come in contact with the food) is so microscopic that it is not worth worrying about.
      If I was as particular as you are, about what my mouth comes in contact with, I wouldn’t worry about ‘buttering’ my cutting boards. I would have a closer look at the lipstick and other cosmetic creams I wear – but I don’t want to scare you…
      Also, I would not eat banana’s. You see, they are radioactive. They contain radioactive isotope of Potassium, and so do potatoes, beans, nuts and other stuff – see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_equivalent_dose .
      Life must be terrible for people as sensitive as you are…

      1. I have no problem with mineral oil. It comes in handy for a lot of things in the workshop. I have used coconut oil at times when I run out of mineral oil. Works really well and smells good too.

        1. I don’t either Bobby and it does a great job in this use…thanks for your input!

      2. First..Bob is my HERO!
        Thanks for the recipe! I’ve a friend who makes cutting boards and I’ve got so many ideas right now. Yay!

        1. Mine too…if I say it, well, it sound combative but if someone else wants to set people straight, I love it! 🙂

      3. I was looking for something to treat my chopping boards. Reading chef’s notes I found that food-grade mineral oil was recommended. I actually purchased it from Ikea. It is in the section with the chopping boards and butchers blocks. If chefs use it, it is fine by me. Looking into it, it was the only thing I found that was constantly recommended by those that know. It does need to be done quite often though. This recipe sounds like it has the missing ingredient to make conditing my wood products a lot easier. Can’t wait to try it. Thankyou!

        1. Thanks for that confirmation Kat…food grade mineral oil is fine for consumption despite the naysayers! And yes, combining it with the beeswax will see a longer lasting product get absorbed into your wood. Hope you love it too…and reminds me I need to swipe my stuff with some more soon!

      4. Bob you are a genius! I couldn’t have said it better. Cosmetics, shampoos…any hair products are full of carcinogens. Toothpaste, deodorants…and the list goes on.
        Medications and 90% of the food we eat are loaded with bad additives.
        I’m liking this recipe for its simplicity and function.
        Thank you.

        1. Exactly Gail! And for what it’s worth, this product seeps into the wood and the rest is wiped off…not much there to ingest even if you wanted to! 🙂

    2. Has anyone tried castor oil? Ive read some articles about using it on cutting boards. Also, has anyone tried this on hardwood floors?

      1. I’ve not tried castor oil; I might look into it though. I do not have the same ‘the sky is falling’ issues with mineral oil though. It is a BY PRODUCT of petroleum production, it is not gasoline for crying out loud and is considered safe by the FDA. It sinks into the board to provide protection and when combined with the beeswax offers what has been the perfect blend of renewing and protection for my boards. I can’t recommend this for hardwood floors because I’ve never tried it and because I think they need a stronger finish like a hard coat to really protect them from wear and tear.

    3. I also have been averse to using mineral oil, and now have discovered fractionated coconut oil. I have not used it yet, but was just looking up the recipe to use it. It is advertised to never go rancid. It appears to be just the oil that I am looking for. I am so excited to find it! Amazon carries several brands. It appears to be also very good for the hair and skin.

      1. And I’ve read that it can go rancid. I think so many think mineral oil is like using gas and it’s not. It’s safe and works great in this application so it’s still my ONLY recommendation.

    1. I don’t think so but the best place to get that answer might be to contact the company I got them from and ask them…they are the only ones I’ve used. There is a link in the post to their site.

      1. Hi.
        I realize your post is over a year old, but I thought I would help out in regards to beeswax color. White beeswax comes from the caps of honey comb. So, the caps are sliced off and kept separate, as done by an ethical beekeeper. I am sure that large companies bleach the wax, as it would require A Lot of Caps to make that much wax. (I use the caps for my lip balm). The rest of the comb all gets combined and cleaned and the impurities strained out; this is that beautiful golden color wax.

        I hope this helps! 🙂

        1. Nice; thanks for sharing some great info. I just love this product; here in Denver it is so dry and I know it is saving all of my wooden pieces.

    1. I can’t say for certain since I’ve never used it; for me the test is this…can it go bad? If it can go rancid; then I don’t suggest using it; if not? Go for it!

  28. Yay!!! I have been searching for someway to condition my cutting board! I tried walnut oil….but it was a tad expensive and didn’t last very long. Thank you so much for this recipe! Can’t wait to make a batch 🙂

  29. This is a really neat trick. Does the wood ed up with any kind of waxy feel afterwards, or does your ‘butter’ just seep right into the grain?

    1. My experience is that woods soak it up and there is no feeling of residue after an application. I wipe it on and let it sit for a bit and then go back and wipe the object down again to insure I’ve not left some on the surface.

  30. This looks like something the Northeast could use, has been such an arid winter. I have a question…Could this be used on wood furniture too?

    1. Only if it’s unfinished Cheryl; putting it on any type of varnished wood won’t allow it to absorb into the wood; otherwise I think it would be fine; always test a small, hidden sample.

  31. I was really happy to come across this recipe for spoon butter. I’d been using a mineral oil/beeswax product from a wooden spoon company in Montana but it was rather pricey (but did a wonderful job on dry wooden spoons). I always figured it should be easy to make but just needed to get the ratio of mineral oil to beeswax.

    Regarding the mineral oil, just be sure that you’re getting USP Mineral Oil (food grade). You can usually find this at pharmacies marketed as a laxative. I found the beeswax on Amazon.com but if you live in larger areas you should be able to find in stores that carry candle-making supplies.

    1. Thanks John; glad you like it and yes, lots of pricey items just like it at the store. I even saw a bottle of food grade mineral oil at Home Depot marked as furniture oil and it was ONLY $8. Same amount in pharmacy? $1 I think!

      I’ve tried to tell people the same thing about the mineral oil but the naysayers just LOVE to share how it shouldn’t be used. I hope readers ignore that info; a rancid board is not a good board!

    2. Hobby Lobby carries the bees wax in both white and “natural” – which is slightly yellow.

      I made my first batch a couple of days ago, and rubbed down my cutting boards and wooden spoons. Works wonderful! However, I might not have gotten the mineral oil warm enough! As soon as I added the mineral oil to the melted wax, it started to congeal. The first few jars look great, but the last jar I’ll keep for myself to use, as it looks like a candle that half-melted in the jar. Goopy! It still works great, but looks goopy.

      1. Ahem, I might have done that with my first batch. 🙂

        It is amazing how great it works; so glad you like it!

      2. I cut or grate the beeswax, then warm the beeswax and mineral oil together. Stir as it melts to combine, and stir after pouring into containers, to keep from separating

  32. Has anyone tried this recipe with another oil? Does it work just as good? I make my own body products so I buy other oils in bulk but do not use mineral oil since it doesn’t absorb into the skin as easily as the other oils I use. I’ll try it with another oil to see how it works out, but thought I’d first check and see if anyone else has tried it yet.

    1. I’ve seen other suggestions Rebecca but for the purpose of this site I can’t recommend anything but mineral oil for this application. Most other suggestions for plant based oils (nuts, grains, fruits) have the potential to go rancid and mineral oil does not. Additionally…there is a huge difference between something applied to the skin and to wood…wood just soaks this stuff up!

    1. Sorry…I missed this the other day. Just add up the quantity of combined oil and was and divide by 4; that should approximate your yield.

      1. Oh, no problem! Thanks for the response 🙂 One more question: does this seal the wood or just condition it? How well does it hold up with washings?

        1. Well, it provides conditioning and some sealing but it will wear off during washings; you’ll know and you’ll just have to put on another application.

  33. This is a great recipe, put together very well, thank you! I’d like to add that their are a lot of people out there making one of a kind hand carved wooden utensils (and bowls) for the kitchen which are wonderful to cook with and bring the added satisfaction that you are supporting local artists and small businesses, all while getting to stir your pot with a spoon no one else has! Which makes it all the more worth while to care for and preserve something that is not only your favorite kitchen tool but also a treasure.

  34. Since I have sets of bamboo cutting boards, utensils, and utensil holders just waiting to be laser etched, this couldn’t have come at a better time. Thanks for sharing this!!

  35. I wonder if this would be okay to use on vintage kitchen utensils that have the painted handles. I would like to somehow clean them and then protect them. Any ideas? Thank you!

    1. I’m not sure I would recommend that. My friend has some of the same; we’re going to put a coat or two of varnish or shellac on the handles…to better preserve the paint that is on there; this would be good for the wood but wouldn’t help keep the paint from peeling.

  36. Can’t wait to try, bought all these supplies a year or so ago, to make lip and cuticle balm. I’ve been putting it off because of the process on my gas stove. Open flame and wax makes me nervous. Today I’m going to try it on a hot plate. I’ll try to get back and let you know how it goes.

    This sounds like it is going to be similar to leather conditioning balm. Any one mentioned that? I only wear Danskos, they cost a small fortune, but it’s better than back surgery. I’ll try it on my slipper clogs and let you know.

    TTFN,
    Stacey

    1. If you get a pyrex measuring cup with a handle you can put outside of a pan with water in it.. it works so well and you need not fear the gas stove. The handle isn’t terribly hot and makes it easy to manage pouring.

  37. thank you for sharing your recipe. I havebeen using mineral oil for years and my own personal mixture of mineral oil and beeswax that I make and call wood conditioner. You can also use your recipe and my recipe oon cast iron skillets.

    Michael

  38. Even tho the contest is closed I’ll add my 2 cents. This mixture is also good for wood handled knives and leather products such as belts, sheaths and pouches.

    1. Thanks William; I’ve had other people ask me about leather but I had never tried it so didn’t know; your testimonial is most appreciated.

  39. You cannot imagine how greatful I am that I found this on Pinterest. I have been wanting to condition my special wood cutting boards, and plenty of other wood utensils and items. I have been afraid to do so because I was unsure about the safety of using the mineral oil, even though all I have read says to use it in combinations with various other ingredients. You have explained this so well and I now feel confident and am so glad my items can now receive much need attention. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

    1. It’s going to depend on the size of your jars; the total liquid from both the melted beeswax and the oil is 40 ounces; just divide that by the size of your jars for how much you’ll get. I used small and regular size jelly jars and got from 6-10 for each recipe depending on which size I used.

  40. Thanks for your recipe of Wood Butter. I really would like some lustrous wooden utensils and now thanks to your Wood Butter, I guess my beaten old wooden utensils would look good as new again. I really wish that the contest hadn’t ended though.

  41. I definitely want to try it on my butcher block. I have so many wood-handled-everything and would just love to get carried away! 😉

  42. This would be great for scratches on end tables/coffee tables and kitchen tables as well.
    Another (non-food) related use would be for wooden handled tools that see weather and out door use. I do something similar for shovel handles, and also my wooden wheelbarrow handles. Can’t wait to try this recipe on them!

  43. I think this is great! But was wondering if it is good for wood bowls etc. why couldn’t you use on your cupboards? Old dressers, chest etc.?

    1. I suppose it would IF your wood is unfinished. If it’s been varnished it won’t sink into the wood. Most wooden cutting boards, spoons and bowls don’t have that finish so soak up the protection of the wood butter.

      1. I have starting using this on my hands and LOVE it! It’s not too greasy and it’s incredibly long-lasting. My sister-in-law made if for my cutting boards and wooden spoons but honestly it is so multi-functional. I am going to make my own batch and drop in some citrus or peppermint to use at my desk at the office.

  44. Greetings! How about using Walnut oil for the oil, thereby keeping the oil edible since these are for food! The mineral oil is a petroleum product! 🙁
    Love this idea! And maybe a drop or two of an essential oil. Don’t know off hand which one but it I will research before making this!
    Thanks

    1. I know that mineral oil is a by-product of petroleum but it is not petroleum and the end result is safe for human consumption. I purchase it in the drug department of my local grocery store where it is sold as a laxative and have to trust that since it is FDA approved for human consumption it’s safe to use. I can’t recommend other oils as nut and seed oils will go rancid over time so they are definitely not something that is suggested for a purpose such as this.

    2. You can use walnut oil in place of the mineral oil. I make both. Many people like the idea of no petroleum jelly, while others may be worried about serving people with nut allergies. They both work great – I’ve tried them both

      1. I still do not recommend walnut oil as it can go rancid; I researched this topic before writing a post and as a result won’t recommend it to my readers. If someone has an issue with mineral oil, so be it, but I can’t recommend something that 1. I’ve never used and 2. I don’t feel is a good fit for this application.

        1. Coconut oil takes the longest time to go rancid of the food based oils. If you don’t want to use mineral oil, it’s probably the best substitute.

        2. I’ve had a lot of people make alternate suggestions but since food based oils can go rancid…some quicker than others, I will not be recommending them. I think it’s sort of this situation; either make it as is or don’t make it but I can’t recommend another product in this recipe.

    3. I am so confused of the endless comments of mineral oil. This oil is so very safe & is often found in the pharmacy as medicine (laxative). Please do some research before putting your foot in your mouth. below is a small clip copied from wiki I thought was interesting … Food grade mineral oil has an E number of E905a, although it is not approved in food products in the European Union, and incidental amounts in foods are carefully regulated.[11] Because of its properties that prevent water absorption, combined with its lack of flavor and odor, food grade mineral oil is a popular preservative for wooden cutting boards, salad bowls and utensils. Rubbing a small amount of mineral oil into a wooden kitchen item periodically will prevent absorption of food odors and ease cleaning, as well as maintain the integrity of the wood, which is otherwise subjected to repeated wetting and drying in the course of use. The oil fills small surface cracks that may otherwise harbor bacteria.[12]
      Outside of the European Union, it is occasionally used in the food industry, particularly for candy. In this application, it is typically used for the glossy effect it produces, and to prevent the candy pieces from adhering to each other. It has been discouraged for use in children’s foods,[13] though it is still found in many candies, including Swedish Fish.[14] The use of food grade mineral oil is self-limiting because of its laxative effect. The maximum daily intake is calculated to be about 100 mg, of which some 80 mg are contributed from its use on machines in the baking industry.[15]
      On a side note I have personally used mineral oil on the rusty equipment found on the conveyors & cooling units of a large industrial bakery, Drakes. I feel the PROS outweigh the CONS by far.

  45. Hi there! I found your recipe for the wood butter on Pinterest, and I’m wondering if you think I could use this on my unsealed wooden butcher-block countertops? I currently use a food-safe oil on them once a month that I can only buy from one inconveniently located store in my city, so I’d love to have something I can make on my own….

    1. I don’t see why not. I don’t have butcher block countertops; I just have three of them spaced in the kitchen for use and I use it on all three regularly. A food safe oil is very likely mineral oil anyhow isn’t it? This just adds a bit more (ie longer lasting) protection.

  46. Hi,
    I just wanted to help out a little with the clean up!
    I am a beekeeper and I make a lot of beeswax products including salves and lip balms.
    After getting as much of the offending oily wax from my glass measuring cups, I put them in the microwave for a minute or two (depending on the size). When all the little bits have remelted and the glass itself is warm, I carefully wipe out the inside of the glass with a paper towel. I always toss the first paper towel for a clean second one and wipe again.
    It works every time!

    Also, this is very close to a recipe I use for a non-petroleum jelly. Instead of mineral oil I use olive oil or almond oil. It works great. You may have to play with the ratio a bit. Just remelt and add oil or wax depending on what you need. But you don’t want to use olive oil or any vegetable oil that can go rancid in your board butter.
    Doreen
    Queen Bee, D’s B’s

    1. Thanks Doreen…I finally broke down and did pretty much exactly that; I couldn’t find another glass measure like that big one so had to!

      Yes, I’ve tried to caution people not to use other oils if putting on their wood boards for that very reason. Rancid would not be good!

  47. I hope everyone knows not to put wooden-handled utensils in the dishwasher. That will ruin them faster than anything. I think many don’t know this, because whenever we have visitors who help us clean up the kitchen, we have to check the dishwasher (if we remember!) and remove the items with wooden handles.

    If the items do go through a cycle, we treat them with a product I found called “Bee’s Oil” and it seems to bring them back. Your homemade formula looks just the same as that…I’ll try it sometime. Thanks!

    1. Knowing and doing can be so far apart! I think everyone knows not to but I’m betting a lot still do. I handwash a lot of things; just out of habit. Anything wooden, big or special does not go thru the dishwasher! Hope you do try the wood butter; it’s sort of amazing; thinking my hands might need it soon! 🙂

  48. I’ve always used mineral oil to condition my cast iron dutch oven and skillets. I’m wondering if your wood butter can be used to condition cast iron as well.

    1. I honestly don’t know…it’s a combination of mineral oil and beeswax so maybe you could do a bit of research and see if beeswax has ever been used for that purpose? I think of it more for wood products though, I must admit!

      1. Don’t use wax on your cast iron unless you want melted wax to cool and harden inside your food 😉 I don’t see a problem with the mineral oil, but this Louisiana girl is sticking to veggie oil…

    1. I can’t honestly say…I’ve never done it myself. If you wanted to test it, it would have to be on furniture that has not been finished with a topcoat of varnish; else you would just be rubbing in on the furniture but not into it. I would have a tendency to consider a product made for furniture but again…I’ve not tested this either. Good luck!

  49. Came across this in my wanderings and would LOVE to share on my facebook page but am completely stumped as to how to get it there…any suggestions?? New Year Resolution…learn this dang computer:)

  50. I shared this with my husband and started listing where we could get the different ingredients and he said, “But we don’t need that much.” So I told him we could always reduce the recipe to which he responded, “We should buy some from her. Look at how much she made” as he waved a hand at the screen with all the jars filled with wood butter.

    I laughed and I hope you smiled. Thank you for sharing this.

    1. I did make a ton…but then I also gave them out as holiday gifts to all of my friends and family! So I have my two little jars squirreled away and yes, cut the proportions, it’s easy to do if you just want a small amount for yourself. You did make me chuckle…thanks. 🙂

  51. I finally tried this last night for Christmas gifts. I made a big mess on my glass top stove and ended up having to use a pan I needed to cook my contribution to today’s feast. No stores open. Limited cleaning crap in the house. I wiped off all the waxy stuff after it set up. (Used what was in the pan on my cutting boards.) Then I wiped everything down with paper towels and rubbing alcohol. Easy as pie, clean as a whistle. Thanks for the recipe. My foodie family members will love it.

    1. Nothing like waiting til the last minute huh? 🙂

      It can get a bit messy but at least it’s not impossible to clean up…hope everyone enjoys your efforts. I think homemade gifts are simply the best! Merry Christmas.

  52. Thank you so much for this recipe! I just wanted to mention something that my husband thought of. I sometimes use crockpot bags. So his idea was to put the bag into the measuring cup so that I would ruin it, or have to try to get the wax out. It worked like a charm!

  53. I made up a batch last night and mine is still not firm to a waxy consistency would I be able to melt it back down with some additional wax to get the consistency I want?

    1. I don’t see why not Lisa…I think you’re on to something and it does seem to need some more wax. It should setup pretty quickly as it cools; no real wait time is typically required.

      1. thank you, I will let you know how it turns out with the additional wax…mine was harder to measure since I bought a brick from a beekeeper and was working based on estimated weight.

  54. Hi I am going to have to try this myself!! I was reading your comments and you said you were having a hard time getting the wax out of your glass measuring cup.. I used to sell high end candles and when I would have partys I would try to use the smell the host like best.. so what I did to change the left over wax to get it out was I put it into the freezer for about 5 minutes (because yours is not set up it may take longer) and then you take a butter knife and gentle poke the side of the candle (wax) and it will magically pot out…. and it is reusable the freezer will not hurt the wax… so try that and see if that will help.. I know you said you would just reuse your cup but others may not want to… just a fyi!!! thanks

    1. That will surely help someone…maybe even me but I finally found a new large glass measure just 2 weeks ago so I’m OK with delegating that one to this pastime. If I find it; I’ve squirreled it away somewhere and can’t remember where!

  55. Thank you for the wood butter recipe. I can’t wait to try it. I found all the ingredients on amazon. Is it possible to add a light scent such as lemon , almond or vanilla? If so, how?

    1. Well, it’s called wood butter but it’s actually a combination of beeswax and mineral oil, neither of which go bad or cause any type of contamination.

  56. I love this. It was easy to make. Got the beeswax from Michael’s, and the mineral oil from CVS. I am anew woodcrafters and I have been trying different finishes. This also worked well on my Bob Timberlake furniture, seems to help with fine scratches. Thank you.

    1. Good to hear Carrie; I’ve just made another big batch for holiday ‘refills’ – I promised refills if they gave me the jars and no one forgot!

  57. Hi can you tell me if this would work on teak furniture. I have a couple of outside chairs that could really use something, but not sure what to use. Thanks for any help.

    1. I’ve never used it on big pieces of furniture Veronica so I hesitate to recommend it. I think outdoor furniture that is exposed to the elements could use a stronger finish. I suggest going to the paint department of someplace like Home Depot and see if they could recommend something; honestly think that would be your best bet.

    1. Thanks Liz…I was putting mine in so many different sizes I didn’t think to measure total output. Nice to know.

  58. It is my understanding that ALL mineral oil is petroleum based and therefore is up to you if you really want to ingest that or not. I personally do not, so I did some digging and found that traditionally both walnut and almond oil were used with beeswax, so if that matters to you, as it does to me – either of those are excellent substitutions.

    I was just looking at some of the wood in the kitchen (multiple wooden utensils, cutting boards, and bowls), and yes, I was just thinking about treating them, and your post was a great timely reminder. Thanks!

    1. This sounds like a great idea but I thought the same thing when I read about the mineral oil. Thanks for giving me a substitute 🙂
      and thanks for this wonderful idea for my wooden kitchen helpers

        1. That’s it exactly Margaret; when others leave comments not to use it I get a bit exasperated…because other oils WILL go rancid; it is not recommended to substitute and I’m as fussy as the next guy. I did my homework on the use of mineral oil…it is safe for this use and ultimately the best choice.

        2. I understand your concern about other oils going rancid, but wouldn’t they wear off before that if you use and wash the item regularly? I’m thinking in particular of my wooden cooking utensils – I use them at least once a day.

        3. I suppose it does depend on use Jen; you and I might use them with regularity and it’s a non issue but I have to be careful what I suggest on this blog…someone else could oil a butcher block that is rarely used and end up with a problem so I have to take the safest route and using mineral oil was it.

        4. I hesitate to say but there is really nothing to go bad; I have jars I made two years ago that are still good.

  59. This looks do-able! I knew that my wood utensils would not tolerate much water nor hold up for long, but I did not realize that I could do something about it! This post is educational and useful for me in more than one way – thank you!

  60. I just found your recipe and can hardly wait till Christmas. My brother-in-law makes rustic wood furniture and kitchen items. This would be a perfect gift for him! Thank you.

    1. It will be perfect…best for the kitchen ware small items but I know some folks have done a lot more.

      1. Mineral Oil is a by product of the petroleum industry. I personally would not use it on anything that comes in contact with food. I intend to try this for furniture.

        1. It is a colorless, odorless and harmless by product…and considered by the FDA to be suitable for consumption as a laxative; I don’t want to consume it per se but it’s not harmful to anyone in this instance.

  61. Any food safety issues that you’re aware of when they take the beeswax and turn it into pellets? (Knowing they’re not intended for consumption but for crafts.)

    1. I did not specifically do research on that; the end result is still labeled as beeswax without any additional additives so while maybe a unique use, no different than using bars.

  62. Contest is long over, but wanted to say – THANK YOU! I have several wooden items in my kitchen that could sorely use this, including a great Danish wisk that was a present years ago, but the wooden handle has seen better days. Pinning this for when I have time…

  63. As I posted in one of the comments, I think this recipe would be best used on raw wood items. If you use the wood butter on floors, you would not be able to finish them again with varnish. It might be possible if they were stripped, but perhaps not even then, if the wax penetrated to deep. The same would apply to furniture. Once a wax product is used, it is nearly impossible to strip it down far enough to stain and varnish. Probably best to keep it for only wood items that would never be finished. Linda

  64. I melt beeswax in the microwave all the time and I put the oils in the same glass measuring cup as the beeswax. The beeswax melts into the oil and they come out the same temperature. I just swirl a wooden skewer through it to mix.

    BTW, this would be good on furniture if you don’t mind a wax finish.

  65. I TOTALLY need this stuff! I’m constantly buying new wooden spoons because we live in the deserts of California and I forget to take care of them! And I’d love to win it since I have 4 children 6 & under and don’t really want to take the time to make it!

  66. Thank you for this wonderful recipe! I made up my first batch this morning and I love it! I just applied some to an old salad bowl and had to let you know. My butcher block is next. Am going to give as gifts, too!

  67. THANK YOU! Found u via pinterest. Going to make a batch soon for my butcher block table!!!! And all the little utensils too! It’ll bring everything back to life!!!!

    1. It really does a nice job…I found that the first time out all of my wooden items just soaked it up like crazy; now I try to remember to do them every so often and never let them get that bad again!

  68. I am a big time canner so the pic of canning jars is what caught my attention! Then I read your recipe and am very excited to try this! My second thought was Christmas gifts!!!!! I have do many wooden utensils and a beautiful buther block! As soon as I can get my hands on the beeswax I’m mixing up my first batch! Thank you for the great idea and sharing your recipe!!!

    1. I gave jars of it for Christmas last year and the orders have already come in pleading for more. You will love it and so will your gift recipients!

  69. Thank you so much for sharing the recipe! We just harvested the beehives and I was looking for something to do with bees wax when I ran across this. I use a LOT of wood items in the kitchen. This will be perfect. I appreciate the time you took to post it for me to find!

    Crystal Burrows
    Brookston, TX

  70. Thank you so much for posting this recipe! I made a small batch (for myself!) today and it was so easy. I used 2 oz of beeswax to 8 oz of mineral oil–and it was perfect! My wooden utensils thank you profusely! 🙂

    1. So glad you loved it Kim; it is easy (OK a bit messy and I miss my 8 cup glass measuring cup I sacrificed to the cause) and already on the list for holiday gifts…the ones from last year have run out! 🙂

    2. Hi! Was thinking of making a smaller batch also! How many jars did you get out of this? Did you use the really small mason jars? Or jelly size? Thinking of giving these as gifts for Christmas, but don’t need 48! 🙂
      Any tips for cleaning the glass bowls after? I can’t give mine up!!
      Thanks!

      1. Hmm…I used some jelly jars and then of the even smaller jars too. I don’t remember how many I got out of it but I guess you could add the quantities of the two products that are combined and then figure which jars you want to use and divide by the number of ounces contained in one?

        OK…if I were going to clean them? I would have probably put them in the oven with paper towels on a cookie sheet and warmed them at 200 degrees til it almost all melted off and then put them in warm soapy water. I am missing that big measuring bowl; I might have to do the same thing!

        1. Thanks so much for the feedback!! It’s very helpful! Will probably run by the store and look for another glass bowl to use since I can’t part with the one I have now! I don’t want to risk it! haha! love that glass bowl!
          Can’t wait to try this and give for presents!

        2. Good idea. I had just used a glass measuring bowl I thought would be easily replaced but now I can’t find one anywhere and I miss it. Better luck to you!

        3. Hi, stumbled on this on Pinterest and am going to make some today. I keep bee hives, and wanted to let you know that the beeswax cleans up, especially off of glass, pretty well with comet or Ajax…you know, the super cheap powdered kind. Use paper towels so you can just throw them away, and it will take a few times over to get it all, but it really does just pretty much ball up and come off. Not as effective on metal or plastic, but your glass bowl should come out good as new. Btw, that’s also how I get wax out of those beautiful jars that come with candles in them, once the candle is done and I want to reuse the jar. Hope that helps!

        4. It does…not that I’m lazy but guess I figured that since I would be doing it again and again that I would just ‘give’ the measuring cup up to the cause. I suppose if I wanted it clean, my first thing was going to be to stick it in the over and melt off most of it and then scrub it and then…I had my brainiac idea! I miss that cup though so might have to reconsider. I thought I could find another but so far, nope.

          Hope you love the wood butter…truth is my friend puts it on her hands too!

  71. Just found your blog via Pinterest. Love the “wood butter” recipe. I am going to have to try it soon!!

    Vickie
    Tallahassee, Fl

    1. Thanks for stopping by Vickie…I love this stuff and it was hugely popular last year when I gave it for holiday gifts too!

  72. I can’t wait to make a batch. I have my grandmother’s wooden utensils & salad bowls, but since I live in Montana I have them on display but haven’t used them since they are so dried out. I could also use a good homemade recipe for polishing the copper pots she brought back from France in the 50’s.

    1. Those sound like the perfect things for it…I have my grandmother’s rolling pin but I use it often enough that it’s not dried out; must be that butter in pie dough huh? Have you tried commercial copper polish? I’ll bet those pans are beautiful; I’m jealous without even seeing them.

  73. This sounds great. So many things I could use this on…my thirsty early 70s Old Hickory dining table would be the first, then the butcher block, the spoons, etc. Lots of wood in this house. Thanks for the recipe! We have a honey farm in town, so beeswax should be no problem.

  74. Could you use he wood butter on wood floors? Thanks for the great recipe I love wood and I am going to have somuch fun with this product.

    1. I’ve only used it on small wood products so I don’t feel comfortable suggesting it be used on wood floors. What I would say would be this…they would HAVE to be unfinished; it won’t penetrate a top coating like varnish and…if you thought you wanted to try it, test it on a small area. I would love to know if you do it and how it works…and good luck!

    2. Sandra, if you use the wood butter on the floors, you would not be able to finish them again with varnish. It might be possible if they were stripped, but perhaps not even then, if the wax penetrated to deep. The same would apply to furniture. Probably best to keep it for only wood items that would never be finished.

  75. I’ve been hanging on to some wooden salad bowls that belonged to my mother, plus I was just given my grandmother’s wooden rolling pin, in the hopes thati would be motivated to try making/freezing noodles, so I’d love to try this out.

  76. Wow, thanks! What an easy & fabulous DIY. I’d love to receive a jar for use on my vintage teak bowls I got at Goodwill. They are sad!

    Thanks!
    Rebecca

  77. you might want to add that folks should use a food grade mineral oil – the stuff sold at the market as a laxative is fine, obviously, but wouldn’t want someone picking up a gallon at the hardware store and using that!

    1. I did mention that Ruth; told them to look for food grade in the pharmacy of the grocery store.

    1. I’m glad you did too Peggy and I’m with you…this mixture has done wonderful things for some of my less than gorgeous pieces. I’m in Denver where it’s so dry; they just drink it up!

  78. Thanks to you I am now addicted to Foodgawker and I found this post from your photo there. I am going to have to try this– this would make a lovely gift along with a new cutting board.

    1. It’s a great gift item Holly; I made some for everyone for holiday gifts; I’ve had comments from people who make cutting boards that they’re going to do just as you mention; make some as an accompaniment for new boards. I would be happy to give you a jar if you want to try it; just yell. 🙂

  79. Wow, thanks so much for sharing this! I have some very “thirsty” wood utensils that would do well with this rub!

    1. The first time they do soak it up; like they’ve been on a desert island with nothing to drink forever sort of soak it up. Enjoy.

  80. Nice idea…Can’t wait to get started. I will be adding little jars to stockings and as gifts to friends… Thanks for sharing.

  81. i love the look of the wood with the *wood butter* …. i was thinking, though, there is a product for cutting boards, like mineral oil, but, it’s *food grade* mineral oil … bought some a while ago and used it on a cutting board from ikea … i bet it would be ok to use in your recipe … do you know the difference between *food grade* and *regular* mineral oil?

    sorry, there are 227 posts and i didn’t read through them all ot know if someone else wrote about this ….

    love a response ……. darlene

    1. I used mineral oil from the supermarket that is in the drugstore section, it’s actually called a laxative (yes, that guy looked at me like I was nuts when I bought several bottles!). I don’t recall if those bottles were labeled ‘food grade’ but it is obviously safe for human consumption and I believe is the same thing as the food grade product sold in the hardware store that sells for considerably more.

  82. Large Animal vets also sell mineral oil in gallon jugs. It is used to treat bloat in cattle. I think I paid $6 for the last gallon jug I bought.

  83. This is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this recipe. I am definitely going to start to treat my wooden spoons and boards with a little love.

    1. Most welcome Wylie; myself and my friends and family have really enjoyed what it does for our wood kitchen products.

  84. Hi,
    Thanks for the wood butter recipe. Recently I started learning how to turn wood bowls. I’ve looked at a number of rather expensive , food safe, finishes. Then , a friend told me about wood butter. A quick search took me to your blog.

    My wife suggested I could find beeswax at a local hobby lobby and she was right. I decided to try soy wax which is about half the price. I had to adjust the proportions. I believe I ended up at about 4 oz (by weight) soy wax to 4 oz (measuring cup) mineral oil. Only a small batch. It gives the bowls a beautiful luster. Time will tell if there are any issues with this.

    Any way Thanks!

    Cary Goltermann

    1. Please keep me apprised Cary; would love to know if there is a good alternative, particular if it’s less expensive. The one reason that mineral oil is used in this combination is because any plant based oil (olive, walnut, etc) has the potential to go rancid. Although soy is plant based the fact that it’s available as a wax seems to indicate it won’t; nothing wrong with a less expensive alternative if it does the job just as well! Thanks so much for the information and taking the time to let me know.

  85. Wow! My Dad would make something like this when he re-conditioned people’s furniture for them. He said that dry wood would eat it up just like a sponge. So thank you for sharing.

    1. Your Dad was right Pam…when I do something for the first time especially. The recipe makes a fair amount but I’m not having an issue with that! 🙂

    1. Certainly…glad so many are finding it and using it…it’s a great find and really does a good job.

  86. Would this work on a piano? This is not one of the black lacquered surfaces, but it’s actually really nice wood and it’s looking a little dull…

  87. I think this is awesome! I haven’t made it yet but definitely want to. I know you said you were looking for comments on this however, I was wondering if you have used it or if it could be used on other wooden items such as coffee tables and such or if you should just stick with the kitchen items? It seems a lot of furniture polishes or dusting sprays end up leaving a very nasty film over time and I am looking to use more natural products to bring out the furnitures natural beauty. Well, that is my question. I think your Wood Butter is great!

    1. I’ve had a lot of folks ask about using this for wood furniture but I’ve not done that and so hesitate to say anything pro or con. Another commenter left a comment with information on what would be a good mix for restoring wood furniture that you might want to check out.

      If it were me…I would do a small test and see if I liked the results and proceed from there.

  88. Tried this on some really old utensils that I was using for decoration. Really brought them back to life. Had an old bread board that was my grandmothers, used nearly the whole 4 oz on it was so dry, but now looks good as new!
    Thanks,
    Karla

    1. Love those kind of stories Karla…it really is great stuff isn’t it? I gave it for Christmas presents and people were sort of, oh thanks, that’s nice. Then they tried it. 🙂

    1. If you want to work on furniture, try equal amounts of beeswax, turpentine and boiled linseed oil. Heat them carefully as above. The turp and BLO are flammable. NO open flames. Dispose of all rags and towels very carefully BLO will spontaneously combust. That means wash the rags, take them outside and spread them out to dry. NEVER wad them up or toss them in the trash. You’ll wake up to the house burning down around you.

  89. YAY! I’m a new proud owner of a fantastic black walnut butcher block island (unvarnished) and I’m just about to run out of my expensive “butcher block oil.” I’m going to get the ingredients to make a batch of this tonight!!

    1. Good for you! You know what I discovered that was most surprising? The VERY same mineral oil sold at the grocery as a laxative for about $1.50/bottle was available as a ‘wood finish’ product at the hardware store for $9/bottle. This is better…I still need to go over my stuff regularly but it lasts much longer than straight mineral oil. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

    1. Honestly Rebeka I would not know; I’ve only used it on wood products. If you decide to test it out, please let me know.

  90. I am a part time woodworker. I have been using mineral oil on chopping/cutting & serving boards that I have made up to know. I made up a batch of ‘Wood Butter’ a few days ago and applied it to several of my newly made chopping boards. It is very easy to apply, looks great and has a pleasant smell and is cost effective. I think that owners would enjoy the ‘ritual’ of a maintaining such wooden utensils with the ‘Wood Butter’. I plan to supply my customers with a small contained of the ‘Wood Butter’ when they buy cutting/serving boards.

    Thanks

    1. So glad you liked it John and what a wonderful addition for your customers; very thoughtful of you.

  91. I came here from lifehacker, and I will make a few jars of these for Christmas gifts.

    Ev’rybody needs some woodbutter.

    1. Well, I certainly appreciate Lifehacker sending so many folks over to check it out! I love the stuff; just did all of my cutting boards again the other day.

  92. what a great recipe for Wood Butter, thank you, but i would like to know if this can be used on wood furniture—i have not made it, but would like to make some soon. thanks.
    haydee

    1. I don’t have any experience with using it on furniture but I suppose it’s similar to a furniture polish. For the real benefits of having it soak into the wood, it would have to be used on unfinished furniture.

  93. Merci pour cette recette de beurre pour bois qui semble être vraiment géniale .
    J’aimerais beaucoup la réaliser mais en france nous n’avons pas les même mesures et
    utilisons les (ml , cl , et dl ) pouvez vous me dire à quoi corespond l’once ? .
    Merci d’avance et bravo pour travail et vos partages .
    Fanchon

    1. Bonjour,
      Je pense que l’once est autour 30 ml, mais si vous utilizer la même proportion d’un part beeswax(desolée, je ne sais pas le mot en français!) à quatre parts de l’huile, vous devriez le faire bien.

      -A

  94. Can this be used on wood furniture also or just kitchen wooden items? Thanks, sounds easy enough to make. I have a lot of kitchen wooden items that could use a sprucing up. I used to collect rolling pins so I have quite a few. Bet they would shine up and look really pretty again!

    1. I’ve had lots of folks ask me that and I hesitate to say, ‘Sure’ since I’ve never done it…but I would if I had a piece that I thought would benefit. Most furniture is finished with a varnish type layer so this would not penetrate that…it would have to be natural, unfinished wood to really benefit I would think.

  95. How about using on wooden dining room tables. Mine is just finished with an oil rub and this might protect it better.

    1. I can only advise on the items I’ve used it for Lisa but wood is wood so I would think it would work fine; suggest testing it on a small area first.

  96. My husband makes cutting boards for gifts and this would be perfect to include in the package with them. Look forward to making some soon.

    1. That would be an extra special gift Wendy. I have a board I keep outside in a bakers rack. It’s on a covered patio but still; each spring I have to bring it in and scrub it down and bleach the dirt off of it. This year I gave it the butter treatment…amazing how beautiful it looks again. Now wishing I had done THAT for a before and after! Thanks for visiting.

  97. Hello! Please tell me when you apply the solution, after solidification and before, when it is still liquid?

    1. I suppose you could when it’s liquid but I never have; I make several jars of it at one time and then use it as I need it. The result is semi soft; you can just swipe a cloth or paper towel through it easily and rub it in.

  98. This looks so beautiful and I have been looking for something to use on my cutting boards. Plus it looks really simple, so thanks for sharing. I only wonder if it can be tweaked to use a different oil that is stable and won’t go rancid at room temperature. I just feel funny about putting my food or body into contact with a gasoline by-product on a daily basis. I’ve been using Crate and Barrel’s non toxic wood oil, which is a blend of “refined seed oil, lemon oil, vitamin E, carotene.” I wonder if this can be a good lead into breaking this down into a healthy DIY wood butter recipe. I just wonder what seed oil they use?

    1. I know that feeling so did a lot of checking and that it’s a by product does make some people squeamish but it’s really the best product to use. it’s odorless and colorless and that the pharmacy sell it for a laxative I’m assuming safe. Most other oils will go rancid…hmm, wonder what they do use? Seed is just a bit generic isn’t it? Please let me know if you find something; would be great to know.

    2. From everything I’ve read about mineral oil, it will not go rancid. I’ve had one bottle for several years, and it’s still good.

      1. You’re right Cheryl, it won’t go rancid. Some have reservations about using mineral oil as it’s a by product of petroleum but all of the ‘bad’ stuff has been removed and I have no such concerns; I would be much more concerned about some of the suggestions I’ve seen elsewhere…olive oil and walnut oil can both go bad!

  99. I’ve always wanted to find something like this, but I was too afraid to use stuff from the store and never thought to make my own! Such a simple recipe, too!

    1. The stuff from the store is so much more expensive. Additionally, the same products, one labeled as mineral oil for a laxative at the pharmacy and one labeled as wood conditioner at the hardware store were about $8 different in price. Be sure to get it from the pharmacy!

    1. I hope you love it…it has made such a difference for my wood products. Not that I don’t have to continue to use it, but in Colorado it’s a given things will dry out and this mixture sort of balances how quickly that will happen.

  100. Made this, this evening – made a 1/2 batch, but enough for me and mom and already having visions of making this for my mother and sister in law as gifts. Currently, I’m waiting impatiently for it to cool so I can give it a go. Seeing as I live a stone’s throw from you in Castle Rock, CO and my mom in Monument, CO I expect our VERY thirsty wooden utensils (and other unvarnished wooden items) will appreciate the TLC. Thanks for the recipe!

    1. Used the cooled version this morning, my wooden utensils literally drank this stuff! Awesome!

      I think I’ll haev to do a few coats to get my utensils ultra happy, but at least now I can!

      Mother and Sister in law are definitely getting some for Mother’s Day. Thanks again for the recipe!

  101. I just want to thank you. I made a batch of this yesterday, and will be giving some away as gifts, and kept some to use on my thirsty wooden utensils and bamboo cutting board (works beautifully on bamboo). This is worlds better than the straight mineral oil I had been using. One of the best parts is the slight honey scent to the wood butter. I’m in love.

    Thanks again!

    1. Thanks for letting me know Mary; it’s always good to hear that something I love is enjoyed by others too. I’ve already had requests for refills for the jars I made for gifts…everyone’s wooden utensils and cutting boards were VERY thirsty!

  102. This would be great for wooden knife handles and knife blocks, but I could also see this being used on kitchen cupboards. It could rejuvenate some older cupboards. Love this thank you!

    1. As long as your wood does not have a layer of varnish on it that would eliminate the ability for it to soak it I think it has multiple application possibilities.

  103. I’m wondering if this would be good for my husband’s cello that was made in the late 1700’s. My main concern would be if there is any residue that would get on his clothes while playing and it’s interaction with the varnish that is on it.

    1. If his cello is varnished I’m not sure this would help since that is a finish that protects wood and would most likely keep this from getting into the wood. From my own experience, it completely soaks into the items I’ve done and doesn’t leave any kind of surface residue but they are all unfinished (except for maybe stain) items.

  104. Going to have to add those to my shopping list. I’ve got a set of spoons my mom bought me when I graduated high school. Nice expensive ones sold through Stonewall Kitchen here in Maine. They’ve definitely seen better days….and I’d like to keep the new caphalon ones I bought from suffering the same fate, being thinner in design.

      1. They aren’t rough so much as smaller than when they were bought…..they’ve seen lots of usage in the past 14yrs….I tend to oil them inconsistently so they have a dark patina from the sauce line down and are light from the sauce line up….lol

        1. You mean like that one of mine in the before/after photo? Yes, that spoon has been used a LOT but it still benefits from a bit of butter love. 🙂

  105. THis looks great! Would it work on a butcher block as well? I have a large one on legs that needs protecting, and I’d rather make something than to buy the expensive mystery oil stuff from Boos.

  106. Thanks for the recipe! I just bought some bamboo utensils and used mineral oil but this looks a whole lot less messy.

    1. It is really a great, easy product to restore lost lustre to wood products. Especially here in our arid state. All of my stuff just looks fabulous.

    1. Vegetable based oils can become rancid and sticky over time. Have you ever had a tiny oil spill go unnoticed and then when you find it, it has become almost impossible to remove because it is sticky and doesn’t smell too good?

      1. Exactly Barb…why I would not recommend any plant or nut based oil…besides that? The mineral oil is MUCH cheaper!

        1. Yes, and like my grand daughter, many people are allergic to tree nuts. She cannot ingest any form of them, whether it is oils or extracts, or just right out of the shell.

    2. I would not recommend that as either of those two oils can go bad whereas mineral oil is traditionally used for this purpose because it does not. It’s easy to find and very inexpensive. I think I paid about $1.25 for each 16 ounce bottle that I found at both the grocery and Walmart in the drug section (it’s sold there as a laxative…same exact product is sold at Home Depot as a wood finish!).

  107. Can/should this be used on bamboo utensils? Tell me more of using it on hands. Does it leave them greasy?

    1. I don’t see why not; it’s a type of wood…that being said I’ve not done any bamboo myself so might suggest you test a small spot first. My hands are so dry here in Denver…it just soaks right in…but we were sort of kidding, though I’m going to put some on and wear gloves to bed and hope it has some time to sink it. Before my skin flakes off entirely!

  108. Thanks for the tutorial! I have a quick question: for the ingredients are those liquid ounces or by weight? (that is very confusing for we who use metric!)

    (and another question: how would other non-metric people know, by reading this, if it’s supposed to be by weight or by volume? England (at least when I lived there) was only imperial measures but they weigh everything for cooking and baking).

    Anyway that second question I don’t expect you to answer:) but I still am curious!

    TIA
    DJ

    1. The beeswax was by weight; I received a 16oz package that I split in two to make one batch. The mineral was liquid measure as each bottle contained 16oz liquid.

      I did take those measures for granted because of what I was using; the beeswax packaged by weight and the other liquid ounces..I’ll go clarify that as best I can now…thanks!

  109. Thank you for posting this… I am planning to put a mixture together this weekend and try it to touchup my kitchen cabinets and a night stand in the bedroom that has seen better days !!!

  110. What a great idea! I was looking at my wooden utensils the other day wondering what to do to restore their luster. Thanks.

    1. I’ve found that some of my old utensils need pretty regular applications they got so dried out…but as I use it more often they need it less! Your name takes me back a lifetime. I used to live and work in Raleigh, NC with a fellow named Earl Shoaf; funny how some of those names (like yours) are unique enough that we always have that recall!

  111. I just found this on pinterest, I am so excited, I make a lot of my own knitting needles and accessories and love the look of unfinished wood, but they get warped and dried out over time and I was using just beeswax, but this will be perfect and a lot easier to apply than the beeswax alone!! Thank you!

    1. Yay…having someone find something I’ve put on here and actually use it? That’s perfect and makes the effort all the more worthwhile. Let me know how it works out for you Jillian.

  112. I live in the So. California high desert. All my wooden
    Surfaces need this. I will be cutting the recipe in
    Half in use on my china hutch. I just haven’t found anything
    That works well. Wish me luck!!!

  113. I was wondering something….I plan on making this and I have a cutting board (home-made by a family member serving in the military) that is made with jaboba (? sp) wood, maple and cherry strips. He told me that the cherry will darken if I don’t use a wood butter with UV protectant in it. Any idea what we could use to put into our wood butter to get that UV protection??? I would love to surprise him with a jar, since he says it is rather expensive in the stores. Thanks for your help!!

    1. Kerri, all wood darkens with age. It is called oxidation. We have had a wood workshop for 40 years, and anytime you put anything on wood, it will also appear darker. If you don’t believe it, just put a drop of water on a piece and rub it in. When it dries it won’t be dark. I think protecting the wood from light would mean leaving it in a dark place and not ever use it. Light will bleach out a stain finish though, if it is intense enough.
      I have a salt box made of cherry wood and it is gorgeous with a buffed coating of this mixture. It was dull without it.
      Jatoba wood is a Brazilian Cherry wood. If you oil wood the grain is more prominent, so it makes it more beautiful. All woods contain oils and moisture and it will dry out it will become dull and lifeless looking.
      I have an antique Hoozier Cabinet, with a pull out cutting board. It was used a lot for cutting meat and making pastries evidently. The board has a deep saturation of fats, and I have never had to worry about it drying out. So the best thing you can do with your board is to use it, love it and it will become more beautiful as the years go by. Just the oil from your hands will darken wood. My two Cedar rolling pins my dad made in 1936 for my mother and grandmother are saturated with fats, from being used for pie crusts dough through two generations. They are beautiful.

      1. Thank you so much! You guys are great! I made one batch already, with organic beeswax even!!!. It is blissful!!!!!!

  114. Wood Butter: just wondering why using mineral a patrolum based product on eating utinsels…as you may have noticed…cant spell worth a flip….just wondering in North Georgia???

    1. It is a by product of petroleum which is true but it is also considered safe for consumption and most often sold as a laxative so felt safe using it for this product.

  115. Will this work on my antique table? I usually use lemon oil occasionally, but it still seems to get dried out. It sits where it’s constantly in sunshine & I’m sure that doesn’t help, but I have a small home & nowhere else to move it.

    1. I would think so Rita. I use it for an antique storage box I own. Mineral oil is sold as a wood conditioner all by itself, the addition of beeswax just makes for a more emollient and bit thicker application.

    1. Trudy I would hesitate to recommend that without ever having tried it. Maybe if you made some for wood and tested an inconspicuous piece you could see if it delivered good results for leather?

  116. I know that you’ve probably already done the drawing, but I wanted to comment anyway. As soon as I saw this on Pinterest I thought that it would be perfect for knitters to condition their bamboo knitting needles. I have a set of DPN’s that my son stuck in his mouth, and now they’re just not quite as smooth as shiny as they used to be. Thanks for the recipe!

    1. I would think they would work. I might take a very fine grade sandpaper to them first and them treat them.

  117. I am so going to make this. My spoons, cutting board and rolling pin are in desperate need of some loving! Thanks for the info. 🙂

  118. I am enjoying your site and am a ‘newby’ to home-made items. I love saving money and the environment at the same time, in fact, it seems to me that a lot of these products are actually better than the store bought ones. I’m excited to try this one, as I, too, have a couple of nice cutting boards and utensils. Thanks.

    1. Thank you for visiting Kathy and I so agree with you. Funny story…the mineral oil for this recipe is sold at the grocery in the pharmacy section for $1.30/bottle when sold as a laxative. The same product, sold at Home Depot in a pretty little bottle with a picture of wood items and sold as a conditioner for wood? $9. I just about died and so will continue to let the clerk at the store think I have a huge problem as I buy this four bottles at a time. 🙂

  119. All gone? I’d love to have some. I just found your blog and LOVE it! My favorite recent cockatail is ABSOLUTE PEARS, PELLIGRINO AND PEAR SYRUP. I make canned pears with pear brandy and save the syrup. This is a really yummy and refreshing drink. (:

  120. I’m definitely going to try and make a batch…but would love to get some for control purposes. Because! My lovely husband bought me this amazing handmade cutting board! It’s mixed woods, locally made and just gorgeous. I want to make sure it lasts forever. (The cutting board was made by Delia Sophia in Milwaukee. Her site is: http://www.deliasophia.etsy.com) Thanks!

  121. Forgive me if this seems a silly question, but how are you applying the wood butter to your wood kitchen items? I’m assuming maybe by rubbing it on with a soft rag?

    1. I’ve just been using a paper towel but found some cheesecloth yesterday so will probably keep a piece of that stored with the butter and use it over and over. Not a silly question; maybe silly of me not to indicate that in post? Will be revised momentarily!

  122. I am definitely going to make this. Just an FYI, when I make my lip balm and lotion bars with oil and beeswax, I put the oil into the glass measuring cup with the beeswax and heat both at the same time. One less item to clean. 🙂

    1. I do that too Elisa but just heat up the oil a bit in some warm water before adding it…no pans to clean or I wouldn’t bother with that step, I’m all about saving steps and time too…thanks for stopping by; let me know if you do make it and what you think.

  123. This is a great idea and recipe, my husband has retired and is making wooden items and we have been using almond oil on them for finishing and using for food as it doesnt have any oder or taste and doesnt get rancid but a small jar of this would be great to include with a bowl or cutting board as a gift. Thank you for the recipe.

    1. That’s what I did for a couple of small gifts this year Sherlie; either a small cutting board of a nice wood spoon with some of the wood butter. Everyone has loved it; amazing how something so simple can be so perfect.

  124. Hi! Wow, this is wonderful! Living in Arizona, with no humidity, I know exactly what you mean about our poor, dried out utensils (not to mention our hands!). I was wondering if you think this would also work on my sad, but very small wood floor in my kitchen. It has certainly seem better days! Thanks so much for sharing!

    Diane Brown
    Glendale, Arizona

    1. Mineral oil has long been used as a wood conditioner Diane; it’s even sold in Home Depot for that purpose. The beeswas just makes it a thicker and more emollient product; I would try a small section and see what you think. If your floor has varnish, it is not going to penetrate though, just an fyi.

  125. I have a wooden box I got while traveling in Zanzibar. I lugged that thing with me on safari (it’s about two feet by two feet, and a foot or so deep). Over the years, it has dulled, and I think this would give it the beautiful look it had when it was new.

    1. The giveaway ended a bit ago Jennifer but it’s easy enough to make; I’m sure your friends would LOVE some from you!

  126. In 1976, my father gave me a walnut mountain dulcimer that he had custom made for me in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. After all these years, it no longer looks its best, and I’m wondering if this is the answer. I have been unable to find anything, commercially, that claims to be safe on musical instruments. This recipe has me very curious. I would love to try it. My dulcimer is unfinished.
    Mac C.

    1. I would test a bit and see what you think…I like that it’s not a hard finish and I’m assuming it would renew the wood without affecting it adversely. It might need a couple of applications.

  127. Do you think this would work for all wood furniture? I’d like to try it on my oak kitchen table. Or is it just for unfinished wood?

    1. It all depends on how often you use them. I do everything every couple of; they need it pretty bad by then!

  128. I am so happy to have found your lovely blog and especially this post. I live in a 1730’s house and have a lot of wood cooking pieces in my kitchen. This will certainly bring a lot of my antiques that I use for cooking back to life.

    1. Perfect Karen. It is great stuff; inexpensive to made and really makes a difference. Make sure you find your mineral oil in the drugstore aisle at the grocery; I needed more and stopped by Home Depot. Hmm, there fancier plastic bottle of the same stuff as a wood condition was $9 vs the mineral oil sold at the drug aisle at the grocery for $1.45. Not kidding!

    1. Don’t wait that long…maybe Mother’s Day. I’m giving some with a set of wooden spoons to one friend. Besides YOU need some!

  129. I made it today! I cut the recipe in half, since I won’t be sharing it soon. I sent one to the workshop with DH. He usually uses mineral oil on anything that will go in the kitchen, but I think this will be better. It feels great on hands that have seen too much dish water. I got 3 half pints from half the recipe.

    1. That’s perfect. I doubled it and got twelve! Everyone is getting some of this from me this year…and you are right; it is great for hands too.

  130. I am so thrilled to find this mixture. My husband makes the most wonderful wood items for my kitchen and I need to “butter” them. I’ll be making this as soon as I get the beeswax.

  131. Brilliant! Especially now when wooden serving bowls and trays and boards are making a HUGE comeback! Can’t wait to make some and would LOVE to win some!
    🙂
    V
    My daughter is in the US so I guess I am still “in”?

    1. The daughter in the US works…I supposedly cut it off last night but I’ll throw your name into random.org; it’s the holidays!